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Rosette embroidery design

Rosette 10

The large cream -white satin coverlet*
from Ireland, partly reproduced in Plate 42,
is an important example of late Elizabethan
work. It has a deep floral border, and a
pattern of floral sprays in the middle. The
materials used for the embroidery are silver-
gilt and silver thread and silks of various
colours. A practice not altogether commend-
able is exemplified here. Some of the
petals of the flowers have been separately
worked, and afterwards fixed to the satin by
one edge only, so as to stand away from the
ground. Such devices are not infrequently
found in Elizabethan work. It is doubtful
whether they should be employed at all. At
any rate, we may condemn without hesitation
the exaggeration to which the practice was
carried in the succeeding period.


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" Black work," or " Spanish work,"
a style of embroidery said to
have been introduced by Cathe-
rine of Aragon, 70 ; very popular
during the reign of Queen Eliza,
beth, 71, 73 ; jacket or tunic of,
given to Viscountess Falkland by
William IV., Plate xxxv, 70, 78,
79 ; pillow-cover in the posses-
sion of Viscount Falkland, Plate
xxxvii, 74, 79 ; sleeves for a tunic,
Plate xxxviii, 76, 79 ; coverlet
belonging to Viscount Falkland,
79; a portrait of the Earl of
Surrey at Hampton Court, illus-
trating, 80 ; specimens anterior
to Henry VIII. period in several
private collections, ib. \ caps and
head-dresses, ib.

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Both sides are
broken up into small panels with a curious
combination of devices. On one side may
be seen a lady wearing a ruff, a mermaid, and
a man surrounded by stags and rabbits. On
the other are lions, unicorns, a rose, a crown
and the letters I R (Jacobus Rex). There are
also clasped hands, fleurs-de-lys, honeysuckle,
pansies, acorns, strawberries and interlacing
and geometrical patterns, on embroidered
grounds of different colours.

A piece of work in the Maidstone Museum
belongs to the beginning of the century. It
is evidently intended to illustrate the progress
of the Reformation in England. King
Henry VIII. is seated in the middle with his
foot on the prostrate figure of a friar. On
his right stands his son and successor
Edward VI., crowned and holding a sceptre
in his right hand and a Bible in his left.
Beyond is Queen Mary holding a rosary, with
a dragon at her feet.